Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder DIY


First thing you want to do is to drain your clutch fluid. The nipple in the green box is your drain point. Put an 8mm wrench on it first, then slip a drain tube over it and zip tie it down at the divot point past the opening.



You can make a drain kit yourself or buy a really cheap one from the auto store or online. I wouldn't bothering saving the fluid, if it's the original stock fluid you are going to want to change it out anyway.


Remove the entire driver's seat. It's only four bolts and its gong ot make a word of difference in getting under your dash to complete this. Make sure you unhook this weight sensor before you just rip the seat out.


Next, remove this clutch pivot bolt and pin to free your clutch pedal from the Master cylinder.


There are two bolts securing your cylinder to the fire wall, one is circled in green which I already have a socket on. The other is hiding diagonally across the bracket on the other sides, indicated by the green arrow. Inspect the stopper circled in blue and see if it needs to be replaced. This one doesn't matter that much, but make sure to check your brake stopper as well. If its damaged, it can cause the brake lights to stay on when the car is off and kill the battery. Learned this the hard way!


It's time to move to your engine bay. Unhook the metal feed line from front right side of you master cylinder. Go slow, you don't want to break or twist this metal line. Use some spray if needed. After that take the nut off connecting it to the fire wall.


Now use a pair of needle-nose plyers on the front left to free the vacuum tube. Make sure to leave the back clamp on, you'll need to transfer this tube to your new cylinder. There is also two metal brackets you’ll need to transfer over. After that is done, you can remove the last nut retaining the cylinder to the pump.


Here is a picture of the hardware you will have to transfer from the old cylinder to the new one.


Here is the pain and the ass part. Depending on what year you Skyline is, you are going to have to loosen up the brake booster in order to clear the clutch booster/cylinder out of the way. I tried ever thing I could think of and there was no way around it.


Back to under the dash. You brake booster is secured by four bolts. Grab a few different side extenders to make your life easier and remove these two bolts. Try your best to leave two bolts on the very edge of two studs so you won't have to line this back up later.


The other two are a bit of a pain. The first one you can see in the above the picture. The other one is tucked behind some wires, couldn't get a good picture of it. Feel around where the arrow is pointing and you'll find it.


You are going to have to play around with wiggle the brake booster forward in order to get the Master Cylinder and Clutch booster out of the engine bay. Just be patient and don't brake anything. I was able to maneuver my clutch booster/cylinder out of the way without fully removing the brake booster.

Here is the picture of the parts I mentioned earlier that need to be transferred over to your cylinder booster, a tube and two metal brackets.


Here is them installed on the new booster.

You can connect to the master cylinder to the clutch booster before or after you reattach the clutch booster to the fire wall. I didn't think it mattered either way.


Alright, you had a brown metal plate from under the dash. Either find a friend to secure it as you feed the booster through or find a way to secure it solo. I used blue painters tape and it seem to work just fine.

Okay, you are almost done with this part. Secure the clutch booster and the brake booster back to your fire wall.


Secure your Master Cylinder back to the Clutch Booster if you haven’t already and tighten down the two nuts indicated in green. Then, reconnect the vacuum tube you saved from earlier along with the metal feed line both indicated in blue.

Reattach the plastic canister with lid and secure it with the new metal band supplied. It should all look like this when you get done.


Alright, that was a lot of work. You didn't forget about the slave cylinder did you!? Based on your model/year, you need to find out if you have to have a "PUSH" or a "PULL" type slave cylinder. Google it! If you have a 1995 R33 GTR, then you need a pull type and the part number is 30620-12U0A.

This part is a breeze if you have done everything else. The green circled bolts will remove it. The blue one if you recall is your bleed valve and you just need to cycle fluid through it until the bubbles disappear. It helps to have a partner able to pump the clutch as you open/close the valve. Just make sure the cylinder in the engine bay doesn't run out of fluid or you'll have to start all over again.